The Art of Bespoke Tailoring: A Master Tailor's Analysis

🔬English tailoring emphasizes a full belly in the lapels, while Italian tailoring often has a straighter cut with a slight curve. The choice of lapel and roll can convey different levels of formality and style.

🎨The blunted corners and rounded lines in Italian tailoring create a more fluid and aesthetic look, while English tailoring focuses on sharp corners and crisp lines for a more formal appearance.

🌟The three-roll-two jacket design adds a touch of informality and sprezzatura, allowing for a unique and personalized style.

🧵The choice of fabric, such as cashmere or flannel, and the addition of horsehair canvas and soft linings, contribute to the overall comfort, drape, and weight of the suit.

🔍Attention to detail, such as the placement of vents and the choice of lining, adds a finishing touch to the garment and enhances its overall aesthetic appeal.

What is the difference between English and Italian tailoring?

—English tailoring focuses on a full belly in the lapels, sharp corners, and crisp lines, while Italian tailoring emphasizes rounded lines, blunted corners, and a more fluid aesthetic.

What is the significance of the three-roll-two jacket design?

—The three-roll-two design adds a touch of informality and sprezzatura, allowing for unique personal style. The lapel rolls in between the second and third button, creating a distinctive look.

How does fabric choice impact the suit?

—The fabric choice, such as cashmere or flannel, determines the drape, weight, and overall comfort of the suit. It also contributes to the suit's ability to withstand different weather conditions.

What role does attention to detail play in bespoke tailoring?

—Attention to detail, such as the placement of vents and the choice of lining, adds a finishing touch to the garment and enhances its overall aesthetic appeal. It showcases the craftsmanship and care put into the creation of the suit.

How does individual style influence bespoke tailoring?

—Bespoke tailoring allows for the expression of individual style, incorporating personal preferences into the choice of lapel, roll, fabric, and other design elements. It's an opportunity to create a unique garment that reflects the wearer's personality and preferences.

00:00Introduction to bespoke tailoring with master tailor Eric Jensen

02:30Discussion on the differences between English and Italian tailoring

05:15Exploration of the lapel shape and roll in bespoke jackets

07:30Analysis of the shoulder structure and choice of padding

09:25Explanation of the three-roll-two jacket design

10:55Importance of fabric choice and its impact on comfort and appearance

12:40Detailed examination of vents and lining as finishing touches

14:10Summary of the key insights and significance of individual style in bespoke tailoring